Shot from a mundane, provincial past, Tess has come to New York to look for a life she can't define, except as a burning drive to become someone, to belong somewhere. After she stumbles into a coveted job at a renowned restaurant, we spend the year with her as she learns the chaotic, punishing, privileged life of a 'backwaiter' on duty and off. Her appetites - for food, wine, knowledge, and every kind of experience - are awakened. And she's pulled into the magnetic thrall of two other servers - a handsome bartender she falls hard for, and an older woman she latches onto with an orphan's ardour. These two and their enigmatic connection to each other will prove to be Tess's hardest lesson of all.